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Showing posts with label Accs Car. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Accs Car. Show all posts

Thursday, August 26, 2010

The Engine's Out Back, Chief! The 1960-'69 Chevy Corvair


Here's an irony of automotive history to ponder: Ralph Nader never actually drove a Corvair - the car he savaged as "unsafe at any speed." Too bad for him - and, of course, for Chevrolet - since he never got to appreciate the many virtues of the pugnacious but ultimately doomed little car his name will forever be associated with.

Though I was born too late to enjoy these cars when they were new, I eventually acquired a '64 Monza coupe in the mid-1990s. I wasn't looking for one; it just happened to cross my path at the right time. The car's oddball layout and low price piqued my interest. Corvairs were (and still are) very affordable as far as classic American cars of the '60s go. I picked mine up for $2,200 - almost exactly what it sold for when new.

The car had all the goodies: 110-horsepower twin-carb six-cylinder engine with a four-speed on the floor; Daytona Blue exterior with white parchment interior. Cross-flagged emblem on the louvered "trunk" where the boxer six resided. I loved the low-back bench seats (this was pre-federal safety regulations) that let you rest your right arm across the top as you drove. Just a speedo, fuel gauge and a couple of idiot lights. Nothing more needed.



My '64 did have one other thing, though - a transverse rear leaf spring that was installed on all Corvairs that year to patch the sometimes tricky handling characteristics the earlier (1960-'63) cars had become infamous for.

Though originally conceived by GM as an economy car, the sporty-looking Corvair (especially Monza 900 coupes) had quickly developed a following as a "poor man's Porsche" - and was sometimes driven beyond its limits by drivers who didn't know theirs.

Problems arose when the car was pushed hard into a turn and the driver lifted off the throttle mid-corner. Like early Porsches, which also shared the Corvair's swing-axle rear suspension layout, the result was sometimes sudden, even violent oversteer. If it got out of hand, the front and rear ends would swap positions, often several times in quick succession. Unlike the swing-axle Porsches of the era, however, the typical Corvair owner was not an experienced "shoe" who knew the importance of not lifting off the gas mid-corner.

Tire inflation pressures were also critical; too much (or not enough) air exacerbated the underlying chassis issues. Porsche drivers were probably more attuned to such things. The average Corvair driver wasn't.

The total number of wrecks was not enormous - especially relative to the large number of Corvairs (several hundred thousand) in circulation. But a few high-profile ones - such as the death of comic Lenny Bruce - set in motion a juggernaut of bad press that Nader eventually rode long and hard. He lives off the fumes to this very day.

GM did take steps to address the problem - before Nader went on his tear, it's worth pointing out. In 1962, for example, a Heavy Duty suspension option was added to the roster of options. It included stiffer springs and shorter rear axle straps; a front anti-sway bar also became available.

It was in '64, however, that major changes were undertaken - including the adoption of the transverse-mounted rear leaf that largely corrected the earlier cars' "tuck-in" problems when the driver lifted off the gas mid-corner.

For 1965, the entire car was revamped - with a sleek new body penned by Bill Mitchell (who also did the 1967 Camaro) and a true four-wheel, all-independent suspension very similar to the one used in the Corvette.

This second generation Corvair was even better than the original; it had matured into a genuine American Porsche that was among the best-handling cars of its time. Buyers could order a 'Vair with a wild-looking four-carb intake or in turbocharged Spyder form and packing 150-plus horsepower. For a car that only weighed about 2,300 pounds, the result was snappy performance.

But the rise of V-8 muscle cars and the seemingly endless flow of cheap, hi-test leaded premium fuel shunted the six-cylinder Corvair to the sidelines - while the whispers and lawsuits and investigations about its being "unsafe at any speed" tarred its reputation irreparably.1969 was the final year - when fewer than 3,000 cars left the factory.

It was a sad ending for a truly innovative car. Had it appeared as a brand-new model just a few years later, in the early '70s - when the gas pinch began to take hold - it might have been a huge success. It was not to be. Meanwhile, I have nothing but kind words for the Corvair.

My '64 ran well, only broke down once (when the fuel pump failed) and, despite what Nader argued, wasn't an evil-handling death trap. With modern radials, in fact, the thing could run circles around its overweight, over-boosted, front-biased '60s-era sheetmetal cousins. And it's just so ... different. People who have never seen one before are startled by its rear-engined layout with the improbable-looking fan belt that seems to bend at a 90 degree angle as it runs from the generator to the boxer six's crankshaft pulley. (The urban legend about Corvairs throwing belts is just that, by the way.)

The heater worked brilliantly, too - unlike an old VW Beetle's, which either didn't or smothered you with noxious fumes if it did.

There were a few niggles - such as the intricate throttle linkage for the dual-carb intake, which had to be set exactly right for the carbs to be perfectly synched. On a 40-year-old car, this can take some time. Also, the thermostatic bellows that controlled the opening and closing of the flapper doors central to the cooling system of the 'Vair's air-cooled engine sometimes didn't work quite right. I had to prop one of them open for awhile until I got it sorted out properly.

But all old cars have their bugs - and taken as a whole, the Corvair's were pretty trivial. Nothing that kept me from driving the car often - and trusting it to keep on running, even on fairly long trips that put me far out of range of tools and the security of my garage.

Whether it's a Plain Jane 700 sedan or Lakewood wagon, Greenbrier van, sporty Monza 900 or turbocharged Spyder - Corvair ownership is a unique experience not to be missed. Today, they are also one of the few classic American cars of the 1960s you can still acquire for about the cost of a three or four-year-old used Corolla or Civic.

If you come across one for sale, have a look. And don't believe the badmouthing you may have heard. Remember: Nader never even drove the car he built a career savaging.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Three of the Most Dangerous Hazards For Drivers


Driving is one of the most dangerous things that we do regularly. Statistically it is more dangerous than flying a plane, riding a quad bike and walking through a rough neighborhood at night. The problem with driving is that it is a complicated activity which is hard in itself, but when you add factors such as driver distractions, road conditions and other road users it becomes exponentially more hazardous. To help you focus better here are the most important things to look out for.


Cyclists - The problem with cyclists is that they have a right to be on the road as well. They go a lot slower than every other vehicle on the road and can be extremely unpredictable. While there are laws to stop cyclists from cycling without lights at night, with a mechanically unsound bike and from cycling while intoxicated, these are often not enforced. This makes not only these inconsiderate cyclists a danger to traffic and themselves, but even perfectly sober seasoned cyclists can make sudden decisions which cause an unexpected unpredictable hazard.

Solution: Give them a wide berth at all times.

Mobile Phones - Even hands free phones are a major distraction to drivers. Having a conversation no matter how mundane takes up part of your brain's attention meaning that you don't have your full concentration at hand in case something unexpected occurs. Of course it is illegal to use a phone while driving, it is however, not illegal to use a hands free kit. Also, as phones get more and more complicated and have internet access etc, it is more tempting than ever to take the risk of using it while driving.

Solution: Leave it in your pocket. Stop the car if you have to take a call. No call is worth more than your, or someone else's, life.

The Dark - The majority of accidents happen during the hours of darkness. Not only is it harder for you to see everything that is going on outside of your vehicle, it is also harder for people to see you. You are more likely to come across intoxicated drivers, cyclists and pedestrians at night also. Despite all cars having to have lights by law, and roads being increasingly well kept and lit, no matter what happens, it will always be dangerous to drive at night.

Solution: While there is no solution aside from not driving at night, one law in the US could help. In some states driving law states that when you pass your driving test you have to wait a significant period of time before you can drive at night. This may save a few lives if enforced everywhere.

Sometimes getting someone else to do the driving when you are tired or preoccupied can be the best choice. For example, if you are on holiday in Belfast then using one of the many Belfast cabs would be a good way to get around, plus you can have a drink with your dinner! No doubt Belfast taxi firms will know the road system a lot better as well, a bit of local knowledge can avoid the stresses of travelling round an unfamiliar city.

The Truth About Car Colors | New Car Guide for 2011 | Driven: 2011 Ford Edge | Spied! 2013 BMW M6 | Sexiest Cars Under $35,000


August 25, 2010 The Truth About Car Colors | New Car Guide for 2011 | Driven: 2011 Ford Edge | Spied! 2013 BMW M6 | Sexiest Cars Under $35,000

Car Colors: They're More Than Skin Deep
What your car's paintjob says about you — and can it get you ticketed?

Henry Ford certainly made things easy when he stipulated that customers for his rugged Model T could have any color they wanted, so long as it was black. Today's car buyer faces a vastly more complicated decision-making process when choosing the paintjob for his or her new vehicle.

There's no way of knowing whether Mr. Ford would have approved of the eight colors currently available with the 2011 Fiesta SE subcompact sedan. Our guess is "Tuxedo Black" might have won his approval — although "Lime Squeeze Metallic" would probably have cost someone his job.

Air intakes system For Machine

A machine can not survive long if there is no cooling, or a tool that helps to keep the machine stable and does not reach the limit on the ability for endurance, if you understand what I mean Essentially .. require refrigeration machinery in order not to overheat, and not damaged

because the working system of the engine is burning and will surely produce heat, was enough to merely theoretical, because I am not a automotive teacher, so I'm not very expert in this field, but I will introduce the expert, for your vehicle accessories, CARiD, a provider of tools or
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be a priority in driving comfort, and durability is good for your vehicle, do not half-heated to use high quality materials, and also do not be confused to find a place to purchase these accessories, because CARiD have prepared everything needed for your vehicle, and certainly with the quality of high


Cold air intakes Good For Machine

If the previous post I discussed, about car accessories, but only at the wheel, this time I will provide information about car accessories, now we move deeper go to again

Air intakes, this is a machine tool coolant for your car, and this tool will increase your engine's performance becomes more leverage, most of which become obstacles in the journey is, the engine overheated, and make them strike, you will become annoyed and will probably get angry.

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Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Cheesiest Television and Movie Cars


Steve McQueen's Highland Green "Bullitt" Mustang is a pop culture icon. But how about the automotive Omarossas? Which movie and TV cars were the worst ever? Here's a list of possible nominees:

* "Magnum, PI " 83 Ferrari 308 - One of the very few slow - and cheap - Ferraris. Though it looks fast, the 308's little V-8 produced just 205 hp - about 60 hp less than a Camry V-6 and about 200 hp less than a current Ferrari.

Now you know why Magnum was reduced to doing burnouts on the grass. The 308 may have a prancing horse on the fender - but there's a Gerbil under the hood. You can buy a nice one these days for about $20,000 - and that ought to tell you something.

* "Smokey and the Bandit" '77 Trans-Am - A great movie - about a once-great car. There's a reason why they speeded up the film in several driving sequences to make the action at least look fast. The '77 T-top Trans-Am driven by Burt Reynolds may have been menacing in its black paint with gold trim - but all Burt had to work with was a low compression 185-hp 403 V-8 pirated from an Oldsmobile Delta 88 - and a sloshy three-speed automatic transmission.

The stunt scenes - and sound track - were done with a modifed car equipped with a much-massaged 455 Pontiac V-8 - an engine not offered in a Trans-Am since 1976 - and a real-deal 4-speed manual gearbox.

* "Charlie's Angels" 78 Mustang Cobra II - This sheetmetal cousin of the "hit me - and we die together" Pinto remains the undisputed Most Embarrassing Mustang Ever Built. It's amazing Farrah was able to chase down any criminals in this tarted-up, toothless faux muscle car. They probably slowed down - so she could catch up.

The one admirable design feature of the Mustang II was its tendency to rapidly dissolve from rust - like an old soup can left out in the yard. So few are left in existence to blight the roads.

* "Starsky & Hutch" '76 Ford Torino - This car ("Zebrathree") was an even bigger load than David Soul and Paul Michael Glazer. Like a washed-up jock in a baggy sweat suit, the customized '76 Torino was a typical mid-late '70s overweight, underpowered smog machine. Its 200-something horsepower 460 V-8 was a low performance boat anchor of an engine better at sucking gas than hauling ass.

A loud paint job and white stripes only called attention to its mediocre performance. This unfortunate Ford was the el cheapo equivalent of a Chrysler Cordoba - only without the "rich, Corinthian leather" to class it up a little.

* "Back to the Future" '82 DeLorean - It'd be hard to get to the next stop light - let alone 1985 - in this stainless steel road toad. With a feeble Renault-sourced 2.8 liter V-6 under the hood - and all of 130 hp on tap - Doc Brown would have had to stuff a lot of bananna peels into "Mr. Fusion" to get the car to 85 mph.

Even with a ""flux capacitor," Biff's old Chevy would've blown its Gullwing doors off.

* "Corvette Summer" 'Vette - Take a perfectly good mid-'70s Corvette - and ruin it with a couple hundred pounds of slapped on fiberglass pontoons, wings and oversized hood scoops. Then spray thoroughly with garish metalflake paint and prisma. Put Mark "Luke Skywalker" Hamill in the lead role - and you've got all the makings of a first-class stinker of a movie about Corvette mutilation and '70s stoner anomie.

The movie is all about finding the car after it got stolen by thieves - but the smarter move would've been to cash the insurance check and send the crooks a thank-you card.

* "Hardcastle & McCormick" Manta kit car - The music and intro were pretty cool - especially the part where the car cuts under the tractor trailor - but the VW-sourced kit car Lola GT/Lotus wasn't.

Even if it did have a Porsche engine (no one knows for sure; some say it was Corvair-powered) a fake exotic sports car is about as classy as Potomac River caviar.

You're not foolin' anyone, son. Put those gold chains away, tuck in your shirt - and buy a real car.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Learn the Quickest Way to Get Rid of Your Old Clunker


Learn the Quickest Way to Get Rid of Your Old Clunke

A lot of people have junk cars just lying around. Since cars are made out of metal, they have this annoying tendency to rust. And devil take it all if those stupid axles and ball bearings and motors and drive trains and whatnot just have a hankering to fail at any given time. If you have a junk vehicle but do not have the ability to get rid of it yourself, you should consider a company that offers junk car removal services. The best part about the deal is that it does not even cost you anything - junk car removals typically feature free towing.

You might be wondering how it's possible that you can get junk car removal services done, and still have free towing. One would think that you would have to pay for that kind of "away from your door" service. It might even seem too good to be true, that you do not have to pay so much as a dime - but believe it. The reason that companies such as Junk My Car can offer you free towing with their vehicle removal service is because they have contracts set up with local car wreckers, and they all make their profit on the back end.

How To Get Rid of Your Old Clunker - Here is a simple overview of the junk car removal business. and their staff walks you through the process of getting all of the title work taken care of. And once all of the legalities are resolved (you know, making sure that you actually own the car in question), you schedule an appointment for your car to be removed from your property. Having it your car be easily accessible really is a kindly courtesy to the towing company.

And once the towing company has gone off with your car, it is no longer your responsibility. Your car is then taken to a wrecker, who will keep it until such a time as people decide to come and pick parts off of it. So, in essence, junk car removals with free towing benefit everyone involved. You get rid of an inoperable vehicle, and a local towing and wrecking company gets to keep their people employed because they have useful work for them to do. So junk car removal is just a good thing overall. If you have an old clunker just taking up space, take the steps to finally get rid of it!


Thursday, August 19, 2010

Are Your Ready for $4 a Gallon Gas?


Unleaded regular's hovering around $2.70 per gallon - high, but manageable. What if it goes back up to over $3 per gallon - or even $4 - which we now ought to know it could and very well may. Perhaps with next to no notice, too.

Are you prepared for that if it should happen? Many of us - probably most of us - aren't. Here are a few things to think about in the way of hedging your bets and insulating yourself and your family from the economic shocks that could very well be just around the corner:

Evaluate your fleet - If you currently drive a gas-hungry vehicle, the time to consider replacing it with a more efficient one is before gas-hungry vehicles become virtually worthless overnight - as would happen if gas prices head south of $4 per gallon.

The car market is like the real estate market - sometimes bearish, sometimes bullish. People who are driving 17 mpg SUVs and pick-ups when gas prices suddenly spike will be left holding the keys to vehicles almost no one else wants, either.

Meanwhile, it'll be a seller's market for fuel-efficient cars. Those who don't have one will pay top dollar to get one.

Act pre-emptively and you'll come out on top. Fail to act and you'll be stuck with a vehicle that may cost $100 to fill-up that isn't worth a third of what you paid for it.

If you absolutely must have a truck because of the work that you do or the area where you live, consider buying a diesel-powered pick-up to replace your gas-burning one. It's true diesels cost more to buy - and the fuel is often more expensive than gas. But at $4 or $5 per gallon, the economics of owning a diesel truck that gets 30 mpg vs. a gas truck that's in the teens backflips in your favory. Plus, a diesel-powered vehicle can last two or three times as long as an otherwise similar gas-powered vehicle. If you only have to buy a new vehicle once every ten or 12 years vs. once every eight or so, that'll save you some bucks, too.

* Pare down your fleet - Many families have more vehicles than people. That's fine, provided you can easily afford all those vehicles - and not just the cost to feed them fuel. People often forget all the peripheral costs of ownership, like insurance, taxes and, of course, necessary maintenance. If you keep multiple vehicles, the total costs can end up being quite high - even if you're not actually driving the cars much.



you can get by with two cars instead of three - or one car instead of two - the savings now can be considerable. And they'll be even more so in a world of $4 gasoline.

Another savvy move is to cash out the equity you may have in excess vehicles. By selling off a surplus car or two, you can sock away several thousand dollars - which could come in very handy on the day that fuel prices rocket to a buck (or three) more per gallon than they are right now.

Investing in a low-bucks used economy car is another smart move. The glitter surrounding a new electric car or hybrid may be dazzling - but it'll take many years to work off the cost ($41k for a new Chevy Volt) of buying one, even at $4 or $5 per gallon. A $4,000 used Corolla that gets 35 miles per gallon could ease the pinch of $50 fill-ups considerably.

* Evaluate your job/where you work -Many of us spend two hours (or more) every workday getting from home to our jobs and back home again. We bought into this because of the math. The lower cost of living in the 'burbs offset the cost of fuel spent commuting, etc.

But the equation changes when gas prices double or triple. All of a sudden, instead of spending $40 per week for fuel, you might be spending $80. For many families, the additional unexpected expense might be the straw that breaks the camel's back. And there's a double-whammy involved. Once gas prices sail past $4 per gallon, those far-flung suburban homes become less and less desirable - and their value falls.

This is already happening. But if we get to $4 or $5 fuel, the downturn in the housing market could become a collapse. Few people can afford a big mortgage - and $400 per month for gas on top of it.

So if you're already close to the edge, money-wise, and know that a significant increase in your commuting costs could put extreme stress on your budget - begin thinking about options before a theoretical risk becomes an immediate crisis. Ask about tele-commuting (if possible). Discuss ride-sharing with co-workers and friends. Maybe even consider moving closer to where you work. Once we get to $4 or $5 gas, your options will not be nearly as good as they are now.

* Save elsewhere - None of us can control the cost of fuel; if the sign says $4 per gallon and we need to fill up, that's what we'll pay. However, we do have control over other expenses. And we can compensate for increased energy costs by reducing what we spend on other things.

Many of us, for example, could easily get by without things like video cell phones and PDAs. Sure, electronic gadgets are fun - and handy. But the question should be: Are they necessary? And if the answer is "no" then the next question ought to be: Do I prefer having some money in the bank to cushion against possible upticks in energy costs (which can't be evaded) or am I willing to risk being strapped for money if that happens in order to have the gadgets I want but don't really need?

The more money you have in the bank - and the lower your monthly expenses for other things - the less $4 or $5 per gallon fuel can hurt you.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Use Car Coolers to Keep Chilled on the Road


Use Car Coolers to Keep Chilled on the Road

If being on the road finds you often "overheated," try using a Car Cooler to cool things down. You can use car coolers for everyday travel, in fact. Unlike conventional coolers, which can render cold drinks hot and hot drinks cold, a car cooler can really deliver what it promises.

What Do You Use Car Coolers for? - Car coolers can make travel much more convenient. Small babies or children especially can be difficult to travel with, and a car cooler can make bottles stay warm and snacks stay cold when necessary. These coolers don't use ice, either, but instead use your car's cigarette lighter for power. That means there's no mess of melting ice. What you have is a portable fridge that's convenient, streamlined, and neat. These can have amenities like insulated cup holders and room for dry items, too, meaning that you can use them for any type of storage -- even for wipes and diapers if necessary.

If you drive a van, this type of cooler can be convenient, because cold drinks and snacks can be there when you need them. No need to stop for meals on the road or to do the "drive-through" unhealthy option. Stay on the road, get more done, and be more efficient. If you have a little car, a car cooler will give you much more storage space. Car coolers can give you lots of advantages, so why go on the road without one?

Brands and Features - Igloo 2707 Kool Cruiser holds a maximum load of 18 quarts and is tall enough to take on up to 3 liter bottles. The little wonder is lightweight yet cools up to 40°F below outdoor temperature and operates quietly. The lightweight grey-white cooler boasts of a replaceable thermoelectric lid. The unit comes with a 12 VDC power. This can be adjusted to cool/warm function. The problem with this cooler is the need to frequently replace the motor.

The Koolatron challenges the Igloo line of travel coolers. It does not need frequent motor replacements. But the lid starts to show signs of chipping with the constant opening and closing of the cooler. This is not a problem if the cooler is not used frequently. The Koolatron is hooked to the car's 12 volt cigarette lighter adapter. But in some vehicles, this can cause overheating, similar to the Igloo traveling cooler. Kolatroon keeps a cool temperature at 40° F.

The Wagan EL 2577 7-liter fridge/warmer is next in line, with both drinks and food kept at perfect temperatures. No ice needed to keep food and snacks at the perfect temperature, so you can have more room for actual food and drink. This is perfect for families who are on the go all the time.

How to Choose Your Cooler - With a long road trip ahead, whether you've got little ones with you or not, car coolers can make things much easier. Instead of stopping often for food or making unhealthy and expensive "drive-through" fast food choices, you can stay on the road and save your money. A hard cooler is best for long trips.

Soft coolers will do well for short trips, where you need to pack just a few bottles of cold juice or sandwiches. Soft coolers do have the tendency to leak, which means they're not Best Cooler for all situations. In addition, consider how many people are going to be using the cooler. There are lots of Travel Cooler designs available, as well as different sizes and brands. With so much choice, you should have no problem meeting your needs. Which cooler is best for you?



Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Autos ' A Better Way to Save Gas '


There's an easy, uncomplicated - and entirely voluntary - way we could cut our gas consumption by a third our more, without federal fuel efficiency dictates or pocket-picking gas tax hikes. All that's needed is a reality check. By which I mean the 85-90 percent of us who don't need and never use the power/capability of 300 horsepower, 140 mph and 0-60 in 6 seconds vehicles revert - on our own initiative - to driving vehicles more in tune with that everyday reality.

As an enthusiast driver, I'm all for high-powered, high-performance machinery and would never support a ban or punitive measures or threatening regulations directed against them. That said, there are a whole lot of people out there - probably upwards of 80 percent of the driving public - who are driving such machines at not much more than the posted speed limit (no more than 75 mph in every state except Texas) and who rarely, if ever, use even 75 percent of their vehicle's built-in capability.


Does the typical driver motoring along at 65 mph need a 300 horsepower sport sedan that can easily hit 140? Wouldn't such a driver be just as well-served by a 200 horsepower V-6? That power level, incidentally, was above the rated output of virtually every V-8 engine built for most of the last half of the 1970s and well into the 1980s. We managed to get by.

How about the suburban mom shuttling kids to soccer practice in her superized, 5,000 pounder 4x4 SUV - skid plates and Hill Descent Control, brush bars and all? It's nice to have I guess - if you can afford it. But many of us are buying into advertising hype and buying far more capability than we'll ever need or use.

Consider: The average 2010 model year family-type car - something like a Toyota Camry sedan - has as much or more power than the highest-powered muscle cars of the mid-1980s. The Camry's 3.5 liter V-6, for example, has almost 270 horsepower. That is 80 more horsepower than a 5.0 liter V-8 powered "high output" Camaro Z28 offered back in 1984. And the Camry's 0-60 time (under 7 seconds) is quicker than the mighty '77 Trans-Am (400 cubic inch V-8) featured in the legendary car-chase film, "Smokey and The Bandit."

The typical '10 model year family sedan with a V-6 engine is in the same ballpark, 0-60 wise, as most '60s and '70s-era V-8 muscle cars - and has a much higher top speed capability, thanks to better aerodynamics and overdrive gearing. We're in the midst of a horsepower race, all right - but unlike the '60s and '70s, no one's going anywhere fast. American consumers have bought into the image of cars, even though few of us want to (or are even willing to) use them as advertised.

Ask yourself: When was the last time you were able to drive faster than 100 mph? Have you ever even driven 100 mph, for that matter? If not, what is the point of owning a car capable of doing 130 or 140 mph? Even if you are so inclined, when will the opportunity arise? It is virtually impossible to drive faster than 80 mph or so for any length of time in and around most of America's major urban/suburban areas - where most of the country's population is. And even if you could do it, it is usually illegal. In most states, driving significantly faster than 80 mph can put you at risk of jail - not just a big ticket. Again - reality check.

Same with all these absurdly over-capable $50,000 SUVs one sees filling up shopping mall parking spots and suburban driveways all over the land. If you genuinely need a two-speed transfer case and the ability to slog through deep mud and unplowed drifts of snow, there is nothing finer than a real-deal 4x4. But if you don't - then ... why?

An all-wheel-drive wagon of "crossover" (even a good front-wheel-drive car with decent all-season tires) would probably suit you just as well 99 percent of the time - and return much better mileage, too. Need to tow a boat to your slip? Unless you're doing that more than a couple of times each year, why not rent or borrow a big rig to handle that job when you need to - and the remaining 360-something days of the year, drive something more in line with how you actually live? Reality check.

And what about people who don't even pretend to be enthusiast drivers? That's got to be at least half of all new car buyers. Just ordinary folks who don't even think about driving faster than the posted limit. They don't jam the pedal to the floor and hold it there, or do burnouts or race other cars stoplight to stoplight. How many Camry/Accord/Malibu drivers have a real need for serious speed? So what do they need a close-to-300 horsepower engine for?

It's one thing to burn up a tank of $3 per gallon unleaded premium tearing down some fine back country road or hauling down a freeway at 80-plus, radar detector on ful alert. It's another thing entirely to suck it down idling in stop-and-go suburban traffic or cruise-controlling it to the office at 45 mph.

Bottom line: If we don't take the initiative, it's going to be taken for us.

Either the government is going to hit us with punitive taxes, or the oil companies are going to hit us with punitive fuel costs. It's in our own best interests to stop wasting fuel just for the sake of wasting it.



Monday, August 16, 2010

How to Charge and Maintain a Car Battery

How to Charge and Maintain a Car Battery


Batteries are the single most important component within a car. Long after you have turned the engine off, batteries are continually supplying many electrical components with the power they need, such as; engine management systems, sat nav, alarm, clock, radio memory, and more. Due to this demand, batteries can become drained in a matter of weeks if not maintained in the correct manner by either driving the vehicle long enough to replace lost charge or by the use of a battery charger.

When planning to not use your vehicle for extended periods, checking and boosting every 30 - 60 days is simply not enough to guarantee your battery will not self-discharge to a critical level. This 'under charging' results in 'sulphation' if the battery voltage is allowed to drop and remain below 12.4 volts. This sulphation is the hardening of the lead plates within the battery and it reduces the battery's ability to accept or hold a charge. This is where we would then recommend the use of a charger to maintain the charge in a battery.

Charging - There are a few different methods of charging to maintain a battery:

1. Charge with a regular battery charger. Downside of this is that often these aren't automatic and do not turn themselves off when full charge is reached. If left unattended a battery can become 'boiled dry' from overcharging. The battery becomes extremely dangerous due to highly explosive gasses produced from charging at a high rate and the casing becoming very warm introducing a fire risk.

2. Trickle charging. This is where the charging device provides the connected battery a low steady charge. Drawback of this method is that these will only give out a constant low charge which is often not enough to keep a battery above the critical voltage of 12.4 volts. In essence they may maintain a good battery but not recharge it if the voltage level becomes too low.

3. Battery conditioners. At Windrush Car Storage we connect all vehicles to a battery conditioner. These are fully automatic battery chargers, which monitor, charge and maintain the battery without the risk of overcharging. These can be left switched on and connected for long periods of time (years) without the risk of gassing or overheating. Simply the best of both of the above.

Battery maintenance - Before connecting a charger it is advisable to be aware of a few basic points;

1. Make sure battery fluid level is between the minimum and maximum marks, if the battery isn't a sealed unit. Top up with distilled or de-ionised water (the acid in the battery doesn't need replacing since it is not consumed).

2. Clean battery terminals and lead connectors with a wire brush, ensure the positive and negative leads make a good fit to each of the terminal posts and use a dedicated battery terminal spray or petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion.

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, ensure that you have the relevant code for the radio if required. This will need to be entered for the radio to function on re-connection of the battery.



Automotive accessories Online


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Best Automotive accessories

Talk about the equipment for your vehicle, this time I'll invite you to see, like what the best quality equipment for your vehicle, This course will make your vehicle more visible to cool, and more convenient for use, especially for the selection of the best quality and basic materials from the manufacture of equipment its elf and creativity of the designers who are experts in their field,

I've seen several places that provide equipment for vehicles, and this is one of the best places I could recommend, to you, who want to buy equipment for your vehicles

CarID. This vehicle equipment company that provides equipment for your vehicle, and now provides an online service, so you can book and choose a model that you want it via the internet especially for your vehicle wheels and rims, with emphasis on the strength of the equipment itself and the materials used in the manufacture of highly qualified, not only that even CarId, also makes for all kinds of famous brands and attractive models, such as chrome rims that are designed for lovers of chrome, but it makes chrom color display our cars will look more luxurious and clean look more elegant

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Tuesday, August 10, 2010

The $41k Volt Fiasco 2011


The $41k Volt Fiasco

How much crack, exactly, has GM been smoking? Last week, it was announced that the much-anticipated 2011 Volt electric car will be arriving at Chevy dealers this fall - and that it will have a starting sticker price of $41,000.

That's (roughly) in the same ballpark as a current-year BMW 5-Series or Mercedes E-Class sedan. It certainly isn't cheap. And wasn't that the whole point? I mean, the object of the exercise was - allegedly - to build a car that burns a lot less gas ... in order to save money. Right? Otherwise, why bother? If cost isn't a factor, then why not just give every American a $100,000 federal voucher for a new Tesla electric car? At least the Tesla is fast and looks sexy, too.


The Volt's just another boring family sedan in the Camry-Malibu mold - only it costs twice as much. So, what's the logic here? If it costs as much as a luxury car, middle class people won't buy it - not because it's easy on gas, at any rate. Maybe they'll buy a $41k truck or SUV or sports car. Because those types of vehicles offer capability or performance or style... or something.

But spending $41k on a car because it's easy on gas kind of defeats the purpose (that is, saving money), doesn't it? Oh, yeah - the global warming thing. Come on. If GM thinks the underwater-mortgaged, rightly freaked-out middle and working class is going to buy a $41k car to save the planet (assuming the Volt does indeed do that, which it doesn't, either) then truly, what's in that pipe that they're smoking?

Apparently no one at GM has thought to ask such questions. Or rather, no one making decisions is asking such questions. Well, maybe someone has been thinking about them, at least. Because GM is trying to make the Volt look like a better deal than it obviously isn't.


The automaker is talking up a lease deal that's been put on the table: Just 36 easy payments of $349 per month! Compared to the average (according to GM) $450 per month lease payment for a standard car, that's a sweet deal, especially when you factor in the Volt's lower operating costs due to its virtual non-use of gasoline. (The Volt is driven entirely by electric motors and batteries, with a small onboard gasoline engine providing back-up juice to the battery pack.)

But hold on. There's more to it than that. First, there's the pesky $2,500 up-front payment the lease terms require. If you fold that into the lease cost - which GM doesn't in the press release but bet your bippie the lease manager will - the total cost of the lease jumps to about $420 per month. And you only get the car for three years. After which, you're out about $15k and no longer have the car. If you sign up for a new lease - or buy the car (assuming GM allows this) then you'd have to factor in the additional (many) thousands of dollars that would involve. Such a deal!

Roughly ten percent of the work force isn't working (closer to 20 percent, if you go by the way they used to do the accounting). The working and middle classes - ostensibly, the people who care about saving money - are rightly scared white about buying into new debt of any kind ... and GM wants to rent them a $420-per-month electric car because ... it's good on gas?

Meanwhile, a 2011 Ford Fiesta - built by a privately-owned concern not affiliated with Obama Motors - is selling a 40 mpg Fiesta for $13,320. Not renting it to you for three years, mind you.

They're selling the whole car for $13k. You get to keep it and everything!

Not only will your monthly payment be a helluva lot less than $419 (around $250 over five years, assuming you've got decent credit) but at the end of the five years, you own the thing. That's money in your pocket. You have a "free" car (or at least, no monthly car payment) for the next several years, or as long as you keep the thing and for as long as it's still running reliably - which, given the long legs of almost any modern car, can easily be 10-15 years or more.

Amortize that $13k for the Fiesta (or $10k for a Nissan Versa or any one of a dozen or more medium-small sedans that can get 40-ish mpg and which cost less than $15k) over a useful life of say 10-12 years and see what your monthly nut turns out to be vs. renting a $420 per month Volt for three years.

Let me save you some time with the calculator. Assume a total cost of $16k - the $13k for the car plus interest costs over five years for the loan. Own the car for 12 years. Your cost: About $1,300 annually; or about $108 bucks a month. That's assuming the car's not worth anything after 12 years, too - which probably won't be the case if it's still running decently (which with proper car it likely will be). Which means it'll still be worth something, even after 12 years. Maybe not much - but probably at least $1,000 or so. Maybe your teenage kid will want it.

Meanwhile, at the end of the three-year Volt lease, you've got . . . bupkis. No car, no equity in the car - and you'll be $15k lighter in the loafers. GM hopes you will sign up for another $420 per month payment plan, in proper American Consumer fashion. But isn't that how America got into the spot its currently in? Genius!

This has been tried before, too - back in the '90s - when GM leased the EV1 for about the same coin. It didn't work out so good then, either - despite a booming economy and 3-4 percent unemployment. That's what makes this whole thing such a pisser.

By what bizarro logic does GM think the same basic concept - a luxury-priced electric car - will appeal to other than a relative handful of affluent buyers eager to flaunt how "green" they are? And if only a handful of such people buy this green lemon, how does that save fuel, or the planet? It's the Porsche model turned upside down.

Affluent buyers esteem Porsches and are willing to pay exotic money for them because a Porsche delivers exotic high-performance acceleration and handling. But the Volt just delivers an exotic price tag in return for high fuel-efficiency to buyers who by definition are in a position to not have to worry much about the cost of fuel.

Porsche also doesn't need federal subsidies to move its inventory. GM does. To the tune of $7,500 in tax breaks per car. (Bankrupt state governments are also offering their own "incentives," though how they'll pay for them no one seems to know.)

GM says it expects to sell (that is, rent) 10,000 Volt the first year out. There may be just about that many eggheads in Hollywood and DC to fill that quota, too. Your tax dollars at work.



Monday, August 9, 2010

How to Avoid Car Depreciation


Depreciation is the amount of money lost on the purchase price of a car over a period of time. It is unavoidable on all but the most desirable or exclusive cars and can seriously hurt your wallet.

This article will help you minimise the effect of car value depreciation and also go as far as to show you how to take advantage of it.
Avoiding Depreciation

There are certain measures you can take to avoid depreciation, you should choose cars with:
* Strong images. 'Prestige' brands are always in greater demand, and always command a healthy premium over more mainstream manufacturers. Although you'll pay more in the first place, you will generally loose less in the long run.
* Diesels. It is expected that these will command increasingly large premiums over less-efficient petrol models in the future
* Low list prices. Even if a car is renowned for stiff depreciation, a low initial price will naturally mean you lose less come trade-in time. Also, cheaper models are often the most popular in a range, so will naturally depreciate less, anyway

Exploiting Depreciation

If you're a used car buyer you can make depreciation work for you. The following models are ideal candidates for depreciation exploitation:

* Best-selling fleet cars often lose more than rarer models, simply due to sheer numbers on the market. Buyers have so much choice; competitive prices are the only way sellers can shift them on.
* Large mainstream cars without the prestigious badges. They're expensive when new but not sought after second-hand.
* Big-engine cars, especially as fuel prices are rising year upon year
* Boring colours (most non-metallics) can be far cheaper than the popular ones.
* The wrong specification such as executive cars with cloth seats, or no air-conditioning

My Top Tip

Buying nearly new cars has traditionally been the safest way to save cash. New cars can lose thousands just by driving them out of the showroom, but one-year-old cars are often free of the biggest losses incurred by new cars.

Franchised dealers often have the pick of year-old cars, thanks to the many schemes operated by manufacturers. Such cars will have a full service history, be fully guaranteed and often sport low mileages.

You may not benefit from a brand-new registration plate, but the guarantees are far stronger than with imported cars. What's more, you could drive away on the same day, but crucially be able to see, feel and drive the car before you part with cash.